A wise young woman named Dorothy once said, “There’s no place like home.” Even though she was fictional, the Wizard of Oz is an AWESOME musical… and her words ring so very true. As the holidays approach, for college students, that means finals, finals, finals… and not much else. Even though the surf was firing, my head was buried in books all last week, and I could only look out the window and sigh, wishing I were in the waves. Fortunately, the stress came to an end, and the embrace of my home, the Pacific Ocean, greeted me in SWELLabration.
Archive for the ‘THE SWELL LIFE’ Category
How To Do Puerto Rico in A Week A series on finding adventure, stoke, and a killer workout in the Great Outdoors from Johnie Gall of Dirtbag Darling.
I’m sitting in a cafe in Lajas, Puerto Rico, chewing on a chunk of fried white cheese, a warm breeze skipping across the table, the salt on my body so thick it feels like a second skin. We’re the only ones who speak English, so when laughter erupts from the other end of the restaurant, we can only speculate—but it’s that content type of musing that comes from being in a new place that simultaneously feels so familiar. We’re tired, beaten by the sun, scabs forming on our scrapes, camera memory cards begging for reprieve, smiles unfailing, $8 tickets for a night boat ride through the bay tucked under our plates. So this is Puerto Rico—and now all I can do is wonder how I’m going to convince myself get on that return flight in a few days. (more…)
We recently ran into AFENDS team rider Torren Martyn in Encinitas, he was extremly dialed into every swell, off the piss, and then just dissapeared. Here’s what he has to show for from the sandy-bottom rights of Mexico before taking on grinding bombs in Nias, Torren’s latest sabbatical stint sent him to the wilds of Indonesia. If you didnt notice, he’s one well dress aussie. He wears Afends and soo should you.
Life at Banzai | Medina, Wilson Crowned at Pipemasters Dane Grady Captures Crowning Moments of the 2014 Billabong Pipemasters
At first look, to say the Pipe Masters was the best event this year would be a dodgy call. The event ran the first early rounds in huge, wild pipeline. And just a few heats after Jordy Smith separated his shoulder, the event was called off. With the event now set aside for the day, Pipeline turned a full 180, producing the best waves seen all year for the rest of the day, but the ASP still did not call the event back on. (more…)