Whether you’re learning to surf or are a total veteran, there is nothing quite as good as having a lineup to yourself. The only way to become a better surfer is time surfing- literally standing up and riding a wave. Paddling around to scrounge for waves will make you stronger but time on your feet is what you really need to improve your surf skills.
If you’re like me and live in a crowded area, you probably spend a lot of time sitting in the lineup and battling for waves. Take the initiative to get some alone time in the lineup and get up before dark to surf. The lighter the crowd, the more waves you get, and the better your surfing will become. Plus you start your day feeling accomplished and refreshed (and seeing the shock of the second person to paddle out who thought they would be the first person out in the morning always gives a winning feeling inside!)
Pictured: Billabong Surf Capsule Wetsuit
Photos by Gina Sinotte